Spending my first Christmas season in Vienna felt like stepping straight into a winter tale. I had heard so much about the city’s famous Christmas markets, but nothing prepared me for how magical Vienna becomes in winter. We had visited once in summer, yet the colder months transform the city entirely, softer, quieter, nostalgic, wrapped in a uniquely Viennese charm.

Cozy Restaurant Neue Hoheit Dinner & Breakfast Area

A Home in the Heart of Vienna

For this special trip, we stayed at Rosewood Vienna, a boutique haven right in the heart of the old town. From our window, we overlooked the Graben, shimmering with festive lights and framed by elegant historical façades.

The hotel felt warm, intimate, and beautifully designed. Its rooftop terrace offered breathtaking views over the city, and from a small wooden hut, steaming sweet Punsch was served, perfect for warming your hands while watching Vienna sparkle beneath you. A few snowflakes drifted down, rare for late November in Vienna, yet perfectly timed for my first winter stay.

Stepping outside from the hotel’s calm atmosphere felt like crossing worlds. One moment you’re wrapped in cozy warmth; the next, you’re right in the lively heart of the old town. Being able to walk to every Christmas market, every café, every historic street was a true luxury, no taxis, no transport, just pure discovery.

From our suite, we had a charming view of Peterskirche, which quickly became one of my favourite places. Its quiet interior, candlelight, and glowing Christmas tree created the perfect spot to pause for a peaceful moment.

Wandering the Christmas Markets

We arrived as the markets were just opening in late November, yet they were already full of life. I can only imagine the crowds in December, every corner of the city radiated excitement.

My favourite discovery was the Altwiener Christkindlmarkt, only a five-minute walk from the hotel. Small, nostalgic, and filled with handcrafted ornaments and high-quality decoration pieces. Right beside it lies the enchanting Palais Ferstel passage, a historic arcade with old murals, tiny chocolate shops, antique boutiques, and cozy restaurants. Truly magical.

Later, we went ice skating in front of the Rathaus. The town hall alone is breathtaking, and the skating rink beneath its Gothic façade feels like a scene from a movie. You can rent skates on the spot and store your shoes in lockers. Afterward, hot chocolate, Punsch, and roasted chestnuts (“Maronis”) made the perfect treat.

On our way back, we passed Demel, the iconic Viennese coffeehouse. Its interiors feel like stepping back into imperial Vienna, beautifully preserved, charming, and timeless. Finding a seat takes patience, but the experience (and the sweets in their nostalgic packaging) is worth the wait.

Vienna is full of antique stores, galleries, flower shops, and independent boutiques. Every window feels like a little treasure. And throughout the streets, the rhythmic sound of horse-drawn carriages echoes between the buildings, adding to the city’s nostalgic elegance.

Back at the hotel, we enjoyed a festive dinner surrounded by candlelight and tasteful seasonal decorations. Returning to our room, taking a warm shower, and resting our heads on pillows embroidered with our initials felt like the perfect ending to a perfect winter day.

A Day of Art, History, and Sweet Moments

The next morning began with a delicious à-la-carte breakfast: avocado–salmon toast, fresh berries, and juice. Then we headed to a place long on my wish list: the Kunsthistorisches Museum.

It is one of the most breathtaking museums I have ever visited architecturally stunning and filled with masterpieces from almost every era. You could spend days here and still discover new treasures. The Egyptian collection, with its atmospheric lighting, was especially captivating. At the center of the museum is a historic café where you can sit, sip coffee, and let all your impressions settle.

Afterward, we visited the Belvedere Christmas Market, a charming mix of nostalgic rides, glowing lights, and children with sparkling eyes circling on the carousel. The air smelled of cinnamon, pastries, and apple punch. As the temperature dropped, we slowly wandered back toward the hotel.

This time, straight to the Guglhupf Bar. I had never tasted Guglhupf before and what better place for a first? In Salon Aurélie, hand-painted with tropical flowers and trees, we found a cozy corner to rest. Warm black tea with milk and the little Guglhupf cake, served on delicate porcelain, felt like a sweet pause in the day. We were told there’s a hidden paw print from the painter’s dog somewhere on the walls, but we still haven’t found it.

Cozy Teatime at Guglhupfbar in Salon Aurélie

What truly makes Rosewood Vienna special is the sense of peace and personality. It doesn’t feel like a hotel it feels like a home filled with stories. Books about Vienna, coffeehouse culture, and Art Nouveau can be found everywhere. The former owner was a passionate postcard collector, and his original postcards line the hallways, beautifully framed. They inspired us to write our own lovely cards are available next to Salon Aurélie, along with a charming little postbox. The hotel sends them for you. A tender reminder of a tradition worth reviving in our digital age.

We didn’t make it to Schönbrunn’s Christmas Market this time but it’s high on our list for the next visit.

Until Next Time, Vienna

Thank you, Rosewood Vienna, for this wonderful, festive stay.

For the warmth, the beauty, the details, and the feeling of coming home.

We’ll be back.

Advertisement.This stay was supported by Rosewood Vienna.

Festive Season in Rosewood Vienna